A. When calculating the cost of an item, I primarily consider 2 things: the value of the materials used (reclaimed materials are almost always more expensive - they are better quality and labour has had to go into rescuing pieces, transporting to the workshop and then additional labour goes into de-nailing, checking for foreign objects, etc.) and the estimated hours the entire project takes to complete (more complicated designs require additional time to plan and build).
Q. Why do you predominantly use reclaimed materials?
A. The short answer is: I love the look! Plus, knowing I’m possibly saving materials from the landfill feels pretty good but it’s also great that reclaimed materials have a story all their own before becoming a new piece of history.
Q. Why is “reclaimed wood” typically more expensive?
A. A few factors are considered:
- the wood had been ‘air drying’ (for decades possibly) which makes it more dense and much less likely to cup, split, warp, etc. then newer wood
- there has likely been extensive labour involved in locating, removing, transporting, and preparing the materials (can be a bit hazardous, tedious)
- the environmental value in knowing that the materials have possibly been saved from the landfill
- the sentimental value in knowing that the materials were likely hand-cut decades ago and used by earlier generations for their own purposes
- the “character” that many of these pieces provide can not truly be duplicated by today’s ‘dyi’ distressing techniques
- typically, many of the reclaimed pieces are in dimensions not available at today’s market (unless you want to pay premium custom-cutting prices)
- the subjective value of knowing your reclaimed piece is one-of-a-kind and that the materials have a story all their own before coming to you
Q. Where do you get your reclaimed materials?
A. Everywhere and anywhere. I scour and advertise both locally and online looking constantly for almost any wood or antique items.
Q. What does “reclaimed”, “repurposed”, “antique/vintage” mean?
A. The term “reclaimed” can be rather ambiguous. It applies to any materials that were once used for one thing, but now used for another purpose. “Repurposed” is another term that can be rather vague; an item that (may have been altered and) now serves a different function from its original purpose. “Vintage” is another term that doesn’t really have a clear definition. “Antiques” are typically thought to be +100 years old. Vintage doesn’t put a date on a piece but the implication is that it may be old and valuable while being “cool and funky.” These are a few popular terms that make people feel that they are recycling, reusing, re…
Q. Can I provide the materials for you to build something?
A. Yes! In fact, that will almost guarantee a lower cost to you.
Q. Can you build with cheaper materials?
A. Yes, typically local lumber stores have newer materials which are less expensive. The quality is not the same (seriously, all wood is not created equally) but I am happy to consider it. Also, unless you want to have custom cut lumber, today’s materials are all very standard in size.
Q. Is all wood created equally?
A. No. Newer lumber from the store is likely of lower quality, less “character” and prone to splitting, warping, cupping, etc. due to the moisture content.
Q. Can I request a certain type of wood be used (e.g. oak, hemlock, pine)?
A. Unfortunately, I can not guarantee that I have the specific wood in my shop nor that I could find it.
Q. Can you distress newer lumber to look reclaimed?
A. Yes. Although I have built a couple of pieces for people using various “tricks” to make the wood look old/used/weathered the longevity of these pieces just can’t be guaranteed. Two reasons are that you can never get “old-growth” lumber at the store and there is a likelihood that over time, the wood will continue to dry and therefore twist, split, cup, etc.
Q. What is “old-growth” wood and why is it valuable?
A. Old-growth wood came from trees that grew naturally, over many decades or centuries. These trees had to fight each other for sunlight and water - growing slowly over time. Therefore, the wood is dense and strong! 2nd (3rd, etc.) growth trees come from areas where the seedlings were intentionally spaced apart in order to have more sunlight and water available. The idea is to grow these trees quicker, in turn making them less dense. Consider this example: an old-growth tree (growing naturally in the forest) may take 120 years to grow 100 feet tall. A 2nd growth tree (hand-planted and spaced apart) may take only 80 years to grow 100 feet tall. The same sized trees have different densities (p.s. I made up the #s to easily clarify the point). Comparing the tightness of the growth rings in a cross-cut helps distinguish older trees - their rings are much tighter together.
Q. What if we change our mind and cancel an order?
A. I will not begin building until the agreed upon down payment has been received. If you change your mind at any time before the payment, there is no charge and I completely understand (in fact, I won’t ask for a reason). However, my policy is to not refund down payments (I may have already cut pieces specifically for your project). If I have completed the piece and you have to cancel the order, I will keep the down payment and the piece.
Q. What guarantees do we have in the project?
A. A few things about me:
- I pride myself in designing a piece that is very sturdy - each piece I build is expected to stand up to much more than its primary function
- also, most of the custom orders I build start with numerous emails back and forth with the client providing lots of images (usually found online) with regards to design, style, colour, dimensions, etc. Before I begin any building, I send an official “confirmation email” that clearly details every aspect of the piece, including the down payment cost, the final price and an estimated completion time. I won’t begin until the client has thoroughly checked all the details and confirmed with me - this detailed email is the actual blueprint I use in the workshop to build from
- I explain to clients that due to the very nature of reclaimed materials, there are going to be holes, imperfections, nails, untrue surfaces, etc. in the pieces and that those features are the very things that help give the rustic project its “character”
- I am a hobby builder. Therefore, I typically don’t feel pressure to produce. Although my goal is to make a profit by selling projects, I still enjoy the process and taking additional time (and usually materials) to build to the best of my abilities.
- I will decline projects that I feel are beyond my abilities and have no problem making a potential client aware of it
- finally, much of my business is done locally and personally. Therefore, I am available and committed to solving any problems that may arise from a project as my integrity and reputation are invaluable to me (I have had many referrals over the years and understand that building things right is my best review!)
Q. Can I send you a photo of a piece of furniture I found to see if you could build it and for how much?
A. Absolutely. That is exactly how many of my clients have first contacted me.
Q. Do you provide a discount for multiple orders or repeat customers?
A. When I provide a quote on a project, I typically do not waver on the price. However, for those clients in the past that contact me for additional or multiple projects, of course I want to show my appreciation and offer a discount!
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